On my last entry, I promised that I would try to write out the instructions for the baby bunting that I made on my homemade knitting loom. I fully intended to have posted this before now, but we have been dealing with sickness at my house, and this is my first real opportunity!
I was not able to actually try my bunting on a newborn, since I do not know anyone who has a new baby, but I did try to determine the size by holding it up to another newborn garment. The following instructions include my alterations based on that comparison with the exception that I purposefully left the sleeves a little long. For small to average-sized babies, the sizing on this should be ample. Adding a few more rows to the front and back pieces (before the decrease) should make it long enough for larger infants.
Notes: I used an e-wrap throughout. All the pieces will be worked as flat pieces so you will be working back and forth with the first and last pegs used as turning pegs. Please notice that the bunting has raglan sleeves so the pieces formed will not be box-shaped, but will have some sloping sides.
To begin, cast onto all 26 pegs.
Work 7 rows then add the first row back in to make a hem.
Work 54 rows or until the work measures 13 inches (including the hem).
Now begin decreasing. Decrease the starting and ending pegs and work two rows. Do this 9 times. There should be eight pegs remaining and the piece should measure about 18 inches (including the hem). Loosely finish off the remaining eight loops and set the piece aside.
Cast onto all 26 pegs.
Work 7 rows, and add the first row back onto the loom to form a hem.
Work 44 rows or until the work measures 10 1/2 inches (including the hem).
Decrease as you did for the back until there are 8 pegs remaining and the piece is about 15 1/2 inches long including the hem. Loosely finish off the remaining 8 loops and and set aside.
Sleeves (make 2):
Skip 4 pegs and cast onto the next 18 pegs.
Work 7 rows and add the first row back onto the loom to form a hem. Work 2 rows straight.
Begin increasing. Work one row increasing the starting and ending pegs, then work 4 rows straight. Work this sequence 4 times, then work 2 additional rows.
Begin decreasing.Work one row decreasing on the starting and ending begs, then work two rows straight. Work this sequence 9 times, then work 2 additional rows and finish off.
Cast onto all 26 pegs.
There are only five pieces to this garment so once you have completed all five, they only need to be stitched together. I apologize that I do not have more pictures for this part, but I was experimenting when I put it together and neglected to take more. Stacking the front on the back with the decreased sections matching and right sides together. The back piece should be a little longer than the front piece. This will eventually be the section that folds up over the top piece and buttons closed. In order to stitch this section in correctly, it should be folded up even with the bottom edge of the front piece in between the the two layers. You can check how the sections are going together by pinning the sides, and turning the garment right-side-out. The folded section should go look like the above picture. When you are sure that the sides are correct, sew them together up to where the decreasing begins.
The next step is to sew the sleeves together. Begin by folding the sleeve in half long-way with right sides together and sew the lower sides together. The upper slanting sides are sewn to the corresponding slanting front and back sections. (The remaining straight section along the top forms part of the neckline.) To sew the sleeves in, turn the garment inside out. Leaving the sleeve right-side-out, insert it into the sweater and line up the bottom seam of the sleeve with the side seam on the sweater. Starting on the top edge of the front, sew the sleeve and front together, over the matched seams, and up the back. Do this on both sides, then turn the garment right-side-out.
To add the hood, take the long rectangular piece and fold it in half lengthwise, with the right sides together. Sew one side together and put a straight pin in the fold on the opposite side to mark the center. Turn the hood right-side-out. Find the center back of the neckline on the bunting and match it to the pin in the hood. Pin the centers together, then pin the two sides of the hood evenly along the shoulders and front sections of the bunting. Sew this in place. In order to tighten the neck opening, I crocheted a cord out of the remaining yarn and wove it back and forth through the sweater where the neck meets the hood. Though the above photo is a little difficult to make out, you can just see the cord passing up through the sweater about center of the frame. The tassels on the ends of the cord and the tassel on the hood are optional. I just added them for charm. 🙂
The final step is to sew three or four buttons along the bottom front edge. Check your placement by folding back piece up and over the front piece. The buttons should go just below the hem of the back piece. Buttonholes should not be required. Just push the buttons through the weave of the sweater and you are done.
If you have questions concerning this pattern or run into problems, please leave a comment, and I will try to help out if I can!